December 15, 2008

Wagah Border

The Wagah border is a ceremonial border of India and Pakistan where each evening, there is a ceremony called 'lowering of the flags'. The two guard units attempt to outdo each other in martial displays: shouting, and stomping around the border in mock military maneuvers. When this starts the air is very energetic and a thrilling parade is done by the border security force (B.S.F), of India and Pakistan soldiers. And to be one of these soldiers you are required to be freakishly tall. Ever soldier on the indian side had to be around 7 feet tall no joke. My friend Flo from germany is 6'6" and all the guards toward over him. It is very aggressive but is really entertaining for the crowds from both sides. It is just too good and the only show of its kind in the entire world. Soldiers from both Indian and Pakistani sides hoist their flags, open their gates, confront each other and slam the gates shut over a thirty minute span. Patriotic music is played on both sides with Indians shouting "Vande Mataran" and the Pakistanis shout ' Allahu Akhbar." And all around is a frenzied and cheering crowd. Soldiers from both countries marching in perfect drill, going through the steps of bringing down their respective national flags. But the most memorable thing is there attempt to outdo each other in showing their anger and contempt against each other. Soldiers raise their boots to show the soles to others across the border, they puff there chests out and touched each other when they came face to face, and they stamped there feet so hard that the road must get damaged somehow. The soldiers adopted every conceivable gesture to show their hatred in a most unsoldier like manner. The shouts of joy and sometimes not so gentamenly remarks are made from both sides of the crowd. People were cheering the soldiers as if they were gladiators. I have never seen such a show of patriatism before in my life, Indians and Pakistanians are so proud of there country its amazing. Kerry and I got to sit on the curb so we had a good seat but i had this old indian lady who kept leaning on me while shouting 'hindustan" in my ear. It was a great expereience i will never forget. And the three indian guys denyl, ashish, and niam that took us, i had never seen them look more proud. After the show it seemed like i was on display everyone asked me for a 'snap', everyone wanted a picture with the white girl it seemed, i thought it was so funny.

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